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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.